STIAAN LOUW '6' AT JOHANNESBURG FASHION WEEK 2011

Stiaan Louw's show, although highly anticipated, came out of nowhere and knocked me over. I have heard about this collection for a long time. I've discussed many of it's details in depth with the designer. But I didn't prepare myself to be so bowled over by a collection such as this. There will be readers who will frown at this statement but they must understand the difference between wearable fashion and art. I watched one particular show that had seemingly no original thought in it's design or execution. In fact it was wrongly arrogant without any backing.

We arrived at the Johannesburg Art Gallery and were soon after ushered to our seats. Word of the event being over capacity made sure we stayed put. Within the hour we saw this as a blessing because even the front row had to make space for extra's. At the following show we found out a certain famous local actress was content to sit at the feet of a magazine stylist. Some poured over stairs and corners and many were turned away altogether asked to watch from monitors outside.




What I deeply appreciated about this show was the lack of two things: Stiaan's name anywhere and the presence of theatrics. His models walked without emotion. They were cold and detached. It was like witnessing these men in some parallel universe walking around their tribes, mud caked on their feet and forearms. I allowed my imagination to wander. I tried to picture where Stiaan was sending these men off to. The Roman influence of some of the garments told me they were off to war. There were dots of Greek influence and of Samurai. In fact so many countries were included but never in an obvious way. You almost have to look the pieces individually to see this.





This collection also includes a surprising addition. Colour! All natural tones but then added with antique jewelry by Ida Elsje  and neon accessories from Missibaba that enhanced the darker tones beautifully. The sandals are an updated version of the kind I wore as a 90's kid. A play on a Grecian or Roman sandal perhaps but completely wearable for any modern man.



In fact this collection sees mostly wearable styles, and dare I say he included commercial pieces like the stitched T-shirts and a drop-crotch ensemble which looks like it belongs to a casual New Yorker. Yes, he darkened a few models skin, yes he lightened others. It didn't even matter when images were projected onto the walls with a white model painted black. His clothing speaks for itself and the model is merely a canvas. There is no hidden meaning. These models are the children of a wold that Stiaan has created, and believes in. A white man in african attire? Gasp. The world has moved on and this collection celebrates that evolution.

Pictures property of Simon Deiner / SDR and Manofthecloth.

AFI JOHANNESBURG FASHION WEEK 2011 - DAY 3

The night that I had been waiting for all along had arrived. We climbed into the van on Friday and drove off into the city to get to the Bus Factory. We were told we would see three shows at this venue and the last two, Stiaan Louw and Thula Sindi at the Johannesburg Art Gallery. Excited but sad that I would be taking an early morning flight back to Cape Town I tweeted like a trooper and took as many photos as my abused camera would allow. As I mentioned, while there weren't masses of fashion forward boys I did spot one or two at a time that I had to photograph, naturally by the time I got to said boys they were gone.

While no venue was bad at fashion week it was the Jhb Art Gallery that facilitated mingling the best. We were all in an open courtyard and this somehow made people a lot more relaxed. It could have been the open bar but who knows.

Let it just be known that AFI did a spectacular job at orchestrating all of these shows. Even if there was a doozy with David Tlale's fashionably late show the whole Johannesburg fashion week was a great success. I absolutely cannot wait for next year.

Day two offered four shows for us to see at two separate venues. We were back at the Bus Factory for Lisp and Wildfig, the former had her models dancing and flicking their hair on the landing above the runway. Unusual but still entertaining! 

Even more so was Spero Villiotti who showered us with gold in the most literal way. To be honest it was rather distracting for the first few looks but the images would come out beautifully. Even Dr. Precious Moloi-Motsepe, who was directly across from us, sat covered in gold but she didn't seem to mind. It was my dear friend Luisa from O magazine that got the most of the experience. 

Directly after the show we jumped into the van and drove off to the Johannesburg Art Gallery. Before going downstairs to the show we stood out in the beautiful lit courtyard. This is where I got to meet a lot of great and interesting people. Tamara Dey showed up soon after and serenaded us. Her dress was from the new Abigail Betz collection, of course. I noticed that a lot of the girls dressed up and their partners didn't. That said it didn't stop many of the men at the shows going all out. It was so busy and crowded at both venues which made it hard to get all the photo's I wanted. 

The last show of the night was Abigail Betz. It makes sense to expect beautiful garments on the runway but I wasn't expecting such a wonderful, wonderful collection. From the location, the music, the flawless finishes of the 50's cuts of the dresses and the theatrical poses which had the designer herself end the show. Back at the hotel it was all we could talk about. Should we be surprised though? I loved seeing the standard raised before my eyes. I can't wait to see Stiaan Louw tonight. I will bring you more images of the rest of the nights shows very soon. But you can keep up to date with Joburg fashion week by following me on TWITTER.

Pictures property of Manofthecloth and Gary Stemmett / SDR Photo!

Suzanne Heyns opened up AFI fashion week officially last night at the Bus Factory in Johannesburg. Media, personalities and fashion voyeurs alike swarmed into the venue with a lot of excitement. I had yet to experience a fashion event in Johannesburg so it was a welcome surprise to see how it is done. Would they be more fashionable? Make less effort? Would they all wear black? Well for the most part they did wear all black. But the looks were certainly different to Cape Town. It was edgier in a lot of ways and there was no shortage of Christian Louboutin shoes, I promise.

Once the mass had arrived at their seats an artistic yet creepy stop motion video was played on the various screens. Two Gaga-like drones with an ethereal presence wore flowing blue material while working a seemingly dead model to a Heyns rebirthing. It set the tone when the big eyed model walked on and the crowd applauded. The futuristic influence was obvious but instead of tight fitting garments Heyns opted for flow, layers and draping in neutral tones. The designs were out there and constructed differently to the norm and I would love to take a closer look. Seeing them on a runway is different to a frozen image because you are seeing it move. What are your thoughts?

PHOTOGRAPHS TAKEN BY SIMON DEINER

FORMICHETTI GETS HIS OWN MUSE

Nicola Formichetti is keeping it in the family. As the newly appointed Creative Director for Thierry Mugler, Formichetti has once again collaborated with Lady GaGa, but this time in song, and not for Gaga herself.

The following video was directed by Mariano Vivanco and features fashions latest muse to get people talking. The immensely talented but not often understood creative called on Rick Genest, a twenty-something model better known as 'Zombie Boy' who he found online. Genest has strong features and keeps in shape but that is the extent of the similarities to his model peers. Why? Because he is covered in tattoos from head to toe. And not just any tattoos. Skeletal, demonic-looking and quite frankly a little scary. Now put the model in the latest offerings (and Formichetti's debut line for Thierry Mugler), run an exclusive previously unknown Lady GaGa track behind it and it's magic.  It may not be traditionally beautiful or artistic but considering that we are slowly running out of original ideas it makes for a breathe of fresh air.




source: homotography.com, gq.com/us

ADREJ PEJIC FOR GAULTIER 2011

In a time when using androgyny in fashion could/should be a normal occurrence it is somehow still met with confusion or distaste from some. I told you about Andrej Pejic. I told you about his long blonde hair and feminine features, the various interest from designers. At the end of the day it doesn't matter what anyone thinks, because now Pejic can add 'high-end catwalk model' to his resume. Jean-Paul Gaultier decided to celebrate the model by using him for his new Spring campaign. In addition to this, Gaultier, who is known for his eccentric shows invited Pejic to join the Gaultier crew in the latest showing of his collection. In fur and high-heels. Does this mean similar models will be making appearances in both mens and ladies shows?

THE AFI FASHION WEEK LINE-UP

Spotted at the AFI Fashion Week launch in Johannesburg last week was Stiaan Louw (with Joe from Jaylowlovesyou). We were able to discuss some of the treats lined up for his new collection but mums the word. Here is a list of designers showing next month.

• Suzaan Heyns, a Joburg label that pushes the boundaries in ready-to-wear fashion, appealing to strong-willed women;
• Errol Arendz, whose luxury fashion brands, DuSud and EA Ready to Wear, have a sleek and glamorous feel with delicate military touches;
• KlûkCGDT, a label that represents the merging of two designers dedicated to each garment with careful attention and dedication to detail;
• LISP, which is about living out rock and roll, with an autumn / winter collection drawing inspiration from the late 1960s and early 1970s;
• Wild Fig, a woman’s clothing label that makes the wearer feel feminine and beautiful;
• Spero Villioti, who for the past 25 years has been viewed as the leading haute couture label in Joburg;
• Abigail Betz, winner of the Best Couture Collection award, whose designs are characterised by femininity and romance;
• Karabo Finger, a specialty fashion brand focusing on women’s career, cocktail and lifestyle wear;
• Distinctive Wear, which creates clothes for sophisticated men;
• Avant for Gaschette, which notes that “inspiration from Joburg comes mainly from what is taken in visually and experiences on a sensory level on a day-to-day basis”;
• Grapevine, a new Joburg label;
• Bongiwe Walaza, who uses African prints strongly in her garments;
• Stiaan Louw, with his menswear;
• Thula Sindi, who designs clothing for elegant and mature women;
• Abigail Keats, whose signature style is best described as a sophisticated contemporary art form that plays with the paradox of masculine tailoring;
• Tart, which focuses on leisurewear;
• Loin Cloth and Ashes, which focuses on dresses for women who dare to be different;
• Heni, who won the Vodacom Durban July fashion challenge in 2007; and
• David Tlale, a home-grown label that stands out for its elegantly designed garments.

from joburg.org.za, image property of man of the cloth

Never the country to conform, South Africa, or more precisely Cape Town took Fashion Week and turned it into more of a Fashion Weekend. Three Days and Fourteen shows which at times included two or more different designers. There were shows which allowed 5th and 6th row attendees to move closer to fill the odd empty seat, and then when it came to the heavy-weights like Kluk CGdT and Stefania Morland there wasn't an empty seat in the house. As a special touch Morland's show was pleasantly gifted with baby-tree's for the guests of the first five rows, to tie in with the earthy tones that inspired her exquisite show, no doubt.

AFI Cape Town Fashion Week, or #CTFW as it has been dubbed on Twitter seemed to include a lot more theatrics than prior shows. Viyella took us on a virtual train ride from Cape Town to Cairo and then serenaded the audience with Opera Singers while the breakdancer, who ended Craig Native's show nearly took out Robyn Cooke in the front row.

VIYELLA was a highlight for me. I didn't go into the show consciously expecting anything but from the fabric choices to the styling I was very impressed. The show, which was divided into about five parts introduced part one in a pastel theme. This was my favorite choice and instantly reminded me of the Dandies of Congo. The fresh colour against the dark skin of the models worked beautifully together. There were so many good points; slanted cuff jackets, elbow pads and the most peculiar but lovely bow-ties. Fashion that is ready to wear.



There was detailing the photographs couldn't always pick up. This made me realize you can't really judge the design without seeing the workmanship up close. Luckily I was able to view the pieces and I will never judge pictures from a show again. There really is a reason the best of the best are seated in the front row. Even from the second row you can catch the most pleasant details (and hurried finishes).

DAVID WEST made a clever choice. He decided it was time to redefine the mould of a model and included a small army of unusual if not awkward models. The prints were large and played off of solid colour blocks and the materials were the odd sort you expect from West. It was a small collection to say the least but all the pieces, unlike a certain designer, were carefully chosen instead of merely put on the ramp with whatever would go.



CRAIG PORT delivered an all white and grey collection. Hopefully this was merely for show and the colourful garments are on their way, but the overall look was classic Port; trousers and shirts built to fit snugly on the broad shoulders they were modeled on. There are hints of influence from Armani and Dolce and Gabbana but they are camouflaged with Ports experimentation with new finishes. It also wouldn't be a Port show without swimwear and judging from the audience reaction I'd say it was a success. He is definitely on the move toward something different and I am interested to see what that is.

CRAIG NATIVE. I particularly enjoyed the acid washed/tie dyed denim in this collection. However I would have styled it with a bright opposing colour to really show it off. While conceptually certain looks worked I wasn't overly impressed with the lack of fit with garments that should have been fitted, making the overall look sloppy. I think that alone would have made a big difference.

All photo's taken by the talented Simon Deiner and can be located here.

SUNGLASSES: RAY BAN AVIATORS FROM SUNGLASS HUT

It was my birthday on Friday the 13th and what was my choice of celebration you ask? Fashion Week of course! I really didn't mind because I got to watch the shows and in between spend time with my mentor and friend Robyn Cooke and our growing posse. So while it was in fact our first Friday Fashion Face-off we concerned ourselves with champagne while our internet selves battled it out online.

Stylescoop: CTFW Mens Picks

A whirlwind of a weekend. Hundreds of fashionista’s and fashionisto’s alike flocked to the CTICC on Friday for the commencing of Cape Town Fashion Week. There was posing, and the nervous approaching of  fan to Editor or T.V personality and trust me, Faux-pas a plenty. FW brings out the admirers and then also the people who truly believe they are above it all, without any credibility, which is amusing.

The shows ran smoothly except for the odd sound glitch but overall it was a very successful showing for the season. Some of the shows...

Read the rest here...

Diary of an Editor with Neil Doveton

Just last week models from Quasimi Homme walked backstage to end off Paris Fashion Week. And for just a moment it's all about menswear. Milan Fashion Week is replete with beauty, glamour and the who's who of Style, proving as always that fashion can be adorned by any shape, age or sex. Neil Doveton, Fashion Editor for Mens Health is no stranger to this. We caught up with him after the whirlwind that was Milan Fashion Week to provide you with an exclusive and unique view into it:

"Being a fashion editor is not just hard work – it’s lots of fun too. Or to be more precise perhaps it’s the other way around. But once a year I get the amazing opportunity to make my pilgrimage to Milan – the heart of menswear and the home of the Milan Menswear Collections. It’s such an honor attending these collections and the best way to not only monitor trends, but to feel the zeitgeist. Let me talk you through an ordinary, well hardly ordinary, day at the shows.






It begins a month before when the Moda Uomo Collezioni Press Office send out their media accreditation applications. If you’re accepted, which Men’s Health, as the leading men’s magazine in South Africa is; the process begins. It’s then up to Men’s Health to apply personally to every designer showing at the collections from the likes of Armani, Dolce & Gabbana and Vivienne Westwood.

Needless to say with thousands of eager journalists applying I wait responses with bated breath, usually only finding out who has invited me to their shows when I arrive at my hotel in Milan. Naturally as soon as soon as I have checked into my hotel I head into the city and begin a crazy shopping spree looking for something new to wear to the shows. This can be a maddening experience – Milan is a smorgasbord of fashion. The choices endless. Avoiding the urge to blow my tight South African budget on the first day, I try to limit myself to a maximum of 3 new items. Planning to come back when my fashion starved appetite is slightly more sated.



And so the first day of the show begins…

09:00 leave hotel wearing, I would love to say Gucci, but not, a well cut classic white Zara shirt (which set me back 50 Euros), flat- front tailored Country Road trousers and can’t-go-wrong leather brogues. It’s ridiculously hot so anything more than this would be overdressed so I ditch my jacket in my hotel room. Once a day I treat myself to a cab ride to the first show, which again sets me back by about 20 Euros. After that I shuttle around on the press bus. But arriving cool, unflustered and still with good-hair is worth every cent.

09:20 arrive at Dolce & Gabbana show. Greeted by the lovely Paola Lacoti, PR agent for Dolce & Gabbana. Present her with 2 black Vuvuzelas she has asked me to bring to Italy. Ushered to the 3rd row. Yeah – there’s a serious pecking order here. But I have come a long way from the first time I went to Milan and stood in the back row six years ago! Seated next to the Fashion Director of a Slovakian publication and a fashion journalist for an Australian newspaper. Cards are swopped and unfortunately misplaced in the excitement that follows. Morgan Freeman is escorted in by a group of black suited ushers – keeping the press and fans back as he takes his seat in the front row. Peaches Geldof, looking stunning, enters and takes her seat near him.




09:30 International press and TV channel photographers start cheering and whistling, urging the show to begin. Everyone is on a tight schedule, the next show, Burberry Prorsum is due to start in less than an hour at a site 20 minutes across town. Lights dim, a whisper of hushed voices and the set curtains are drawn back to reveal Annie Lennox seated at a grand piano – the crowd erupts with delight. Lennox sings as models enter onto the runway. It’s a heart-stopping fusion of music and fashion. Dolce & Gabbana show a range that indicates a new move towards softer tailoring this season.



The designers, who are celebrating 20 years in menswear, show a collection that is calm and unforced and has the ease that comes with no longer needing to push boundaries of taste or striving to be part of a youthful club scene. It’s a breathtaking moment, one I will never forget. The audience applauds with admiration as Lennox reaches a crescendo, a vibrant and emotional accompaniment to a spectacular finale of 30 models dressed in Dolce & Gabbana suits. I am momentarily dazed.

9:55 The show is over. I gather my bag, camera and notebook and join the throng of bubbling, impressed fashionistas as we head out to the street. Excited, I head off eagerly to the next show - Burberry Prorsum .

10:30 It isn’t long before Christopher Bailey, head designer for Burberry has me riveted to the edge of my seat, craning my neck to get the best view of the runway from my middle row seat. I don’t care that I don’t have the best seat in the house. I am honored to be there. To be part of the first to see his new collection. A collection that has me stunned, gob smacked by Bailey’s expert ability to reinvent the archives. This season he seems to find fresh territory: motorbike riders, with their use of studs and leather. Leading the way for an obvious trend for next season – the biker jacket.

11:30 and I find myself halfway across town at the Emporio Armani show….and so goes my day till seven in the evening when the last show ends.

19:00 The sun still sits high in the sky, my emotions up there with it. I snack on a real margarita pizza, sip a double espresso slowly (they cost 4 Euros so you have to make them last!) and reflect over the days shows. Jotting notes in my diary. Scanning through the pictures I have taken. Indulging in the moment. 3 whole more days to go – it doesn’t get better than this."

And he's right. Bloggers and journalists from here to New York dream of attending one show let alone an array of them. So with that in mind I had a few question for Neil:



I never try too hard when I am in Milan. Less is more when attending the shows. I tend to keep my looks as simple as possible. Although many dress up for the occasion there are always the purists who are there not for the extravaganza but for the art that fashion is.


I am always inspired by the shows – to a point where it’s almost heartbreaking, not being able to afford what I see on the catwalks. But there are terrific mainstream stores like Zara and H&M that generally offer contemporary looks at more affordable prices. I always invest in some classic items that I know I am going to need for the next year or so, like a good jacket, white shirts, leather brogues and jeans. Then I splash out and buy a few more trendy items for a mood lift! And of course with the whole shift away from last season’s bright and garish colours to a more neutral and tonally monochromatic color spectrum I had to introduce a few more neutrals to my wardrobe.


I guess one of my highlights this years was being invited to the Dolce & Gabbana 20th Anniversary Exhibition of the duo’s best works at the Mayoral Hall next to the famous Le Scala Opera Theatre. It was a momentous occasion, red carpet, film crews and to top it off an opportunity to be welcomed and received personally by Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana. Yip – I got to shake hands with them! Admittedly this sounds horribly pretentious but it certainly isn’t something I ever expected to do!


I am a fan of the classics. I love tailoring, suits and the feel of Mediterranean elegance. I guess I am a bit of a romantic when it comes to fashion. Armani always moves me. It’s no wonder his success spans more than 6 decades - he has an innate ability to create the most beautiful suits and this season his collection showed a new relaxed approach to fit and tailoring – indicative of a new trend emerging. And then of course I am a devout fan of iconic Vivienne Westwood, who never ceases to amaze me – with her origins in early Punk , there is none better at fusing the practical with the fantastical. Dolce & Gabbana’s collections are always amazing and the D&G show this season, was fresh wonderfully fresh and pale blues greens and yellows added pleasant highlights to the general tonal beiges and pale grays of this seasons dominating color trends. I am also a big fan of Iceberg. It’s a brand I would love to see in South Africa. It’s very wearable and even though it has a high fashion edge there is always something in the collection for the average guy. Practical stuff like polo t-shirts, cardigans, trousers and cool jackets."

Burberry you Stud, you!

While Christopher Bailey is not bowling you over with colours and prints that we have not seen before, what he is doing is keeping the legacy of the brand fresh. Burberry just wouldn't be Burberry without the trench, and frankly I wouldn't want it to be any other way. Keeping to a similar colour palette as last season Bailey introduced a heavy Rocker influence with the use of the Stud trend in many forms.







In addition to this, Bailey experiments with mesh tops, transparency and even leather shirts to further define the 2011 Spring/Summer season as a prominent Biker rebelliousness. The point he makes is that the subtlety's of his changes are effective without overpowering or insulting any die-hard Burberry Prorsum fans, all the more pulling Burberry to the modern age.











And of course, finally Burberry releases a Gum-boot for their mens range. Which in our current climate would be perfect! So you know...